People Don’t Really Talk About How To Actually Get To Machu Picchu
Only about 500 people lived at Machu Picchu at its peak. That’s incredible, considering the built-out area is about one million square feet.
Machu Picchu is one of the New Seven Wonders of the World, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and an overall really cool place to visit.
HOWEVER, people really don’t talk about just how involved it is to actually get there. I wrote about my recent visit in some detail here, but I thought it was important — for those considering the journey — to lay out a bit more detail about all the moving parts of the expedition.
Tourists walk among the famed terraced landscapes.
From my suburban Detroit home, I counted no less than a dozen vehicles that it took me to finally trek around the historic Incan citadel. But that involved driving to Chicago and picking up my 90-year-old cousin.
You first have to get to Peru, which was a couple flights for us. Once you get yourself down to Lima, Peru, the number of rides you gotta catch is no less daunting. First, you need to get to Cusco — pretty much the sole jumping off point for Machu Picchu. It’s a city about 11,000 feet above sea level and the easiest way to get to Cusco is an hour-and-a-half long flight from Lima. A bus takes 18-21 hours!
Oxygen and a cup of coca tea in the hotel lobby. →
The air is very thin in Cusco, especially for most of us North Americans. We spent a day acclimating to it, but could’ve used more time. I sucked down some oxygen, provided by the hotel and also drank a bunch of coca tea and mint tea, aids — they say — in fighting altitude sickness.
Okay, so you’re in Cusco and “only” 45 miles from Machu Picchu, it seems simple, right? Well …
We had a 4:30 am wake up call at the hotel and had to be ready to go a little after 5:00 am. Our group got into a van and were driven about an hour and 45 minutes to the Ollantaytambo train station.
Our merry band included a few Norwegians, an Australian, six Americans (two not pictured) and our Peruvian guide — all in white — second from left.
We had an excellent guide, a very fit grandma named Mija. We saw independent guides coming to the hotel and briefing couples or small groups. Our group of nine travelers was booked months ahead of time by Hurtigruten Expeditions.
(SIDE NOTE: It was funny asking various tourist-looking people throughout our two weeks in South America if they were with Hurtigruten. Saying it with Hurtigruten’s native Norwegian accent elicited even funnier looks from people.)
Our escort to the train was a delightful musical band of traditional Andean dancers.
Anyway, we waited at the train station in Ollantaytambo for a short while until a wonderful group of Incan re-enactors sang and musically escorted us to the train.
It took about two hours to get to Aguas Calientes (Hot Springs) which is the town at the base of Machu Picchu’s Andes home. The train ride was beautiful, following the Urubamba River through the Sacred Valley. There were snacks and drinks, a dramatic, musical myth presentation by the waiters who’d just brought us snacks and even an observation car with open windows. Incomprehensibly, there was music and dancing in that car. Also incomprehensibly, my guide got me dancing to modern Peruvian beats.
My father’s cousin and traveling companion, Cuz, gazes out the window as the train passes through the breadbasket of Peru.
Once we reached, Aguas Caliente, we lined up in a tremendously long queue to board busses that drove us the final 30 minutes up to the Machu Picchu entrance. I say “we” lined up when I really mean “they.” Remember, I was shepherding around my 90-year-old Cuz, so our guide just plopped us across the street from the busses and we waited there as the other seven members of our group waited, waited and waited with hundreds upon thousands? of others.
The number of visitors each day to the incredible architectural display is restricted. So it’s important to have ALL your tickets — van/train/bus/entrance lined up way ahead of time. Likely, they should be purchased one or more months in advance. Our travel company did it all for us, one of the many good things about them.
This is, I think, is the third iteration of my outfit for the day. It was freezing in the morning and I sweat like a (guinea) pig in the afternoon.
Oh, also, you’ll need your passport to get into Machu Picchu too. Don’t leave it back in your hotel safe.
Of course, there’s always the Inca Trail which takes several days to hike. If you’re fit and feel like taking the more ancient way, give this a try. The hike is supposedly beautiful and difficult. We saw a few brave souls navigating some steep steps criss-crossed by the bus route up the final mountain.
Over and over again, we were drilled with what to take along with us and what we couldn’t bring. Selfie sticks, tripods and monopods are definitely not allowed. Alcohol, drones, musical instruments and umbrellas even are forbidden. One warning I read said: “Machu Picchu is considered a sacred place, so obscene acts or noises are not allowed in the Inca city.“
What to take to Machu Picchu:
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Passport
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Water
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Sunglasses
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Lip balm
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Rain gear
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Bug repellent
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Sun protection
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Really good walking shoes
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Dress in layers. Expedition shirts and pants that you can unzip and roll up work best
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You may be tempted, but don’t dress in winter clothing
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A good, lightweight backpack to carry the above items
Obviously don’t just listen to me! I spent a good amount of time on YouTube before going and that also helped me figure out what to bring and what to expect. If you ever have the opportunity to trek there, GO; you won’t be disappointed.
Beautiful Angel’s Trumpet flowers cascade out of a bush at the entrance to Machu Picchu.
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Rodney Curtis is a recovering journalist and author of four books.
I love how you close this chapter with the image of angel’s trumpet flowers. Thanks for the journey. You put me right there beside your Cuz.
Oh man, wish you were REALLY there! I think you would’ve spilled some perfect poetry from the journey. Thank you!